Full crimping reddit. But is it? Here's why you might want to reconsider.

Full crimping reddit. Half crimp hangs should make your full crimp stronger too. I'm thinking this might be beneficial, my index definitely is a weak link in half crimps. What I've noticed in nearly all cases is that most people have hyperextended dip joints in full crimp and tend to put their thumb on top of index/middle fingers, but my full crimp looks pretty similar to my half, but I put my thumb on the side of my index for stability more than anything and don't hyperextend the dip joints. This was more apparent in full crimp than half crimp, which is why I avoided full crimp for so long. Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. but it comes with the same issue as moon, pulling onto small holds still stresses the pulleys, and making them feel nice makes them easier mentally to pull hard, leading to strains. If you want finger strength, you could just look for climbs that rely on their crimp holds. Full crimping tends to go hand in hand with wrapping the thumb over the index finger and going into ulnar deviation. There are plenty of foot holds, and on two different walls, so the crimps are just to keep your body tight to the wall. There is an entire guide to correct crimping specifications. I then proceed to do dynamic finger curls (from a full open hand to a near full crimp, without the thumb) for a total of 5 sets of 10 reps per hand. Different types of crimps, when to crimp, and how to do it! I think there's no denying that full crimping is more dangerous than open hand because of the biomechanics. Any angle 30 or higher is fantastic. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. Open crimp: involves flexion of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint to 90 Your technique and habits are likely injury promoting (always full crimping, over-training, muscles under developed which put more strain on soft tissue / tendons) Full stop. Don’t get too caught up with grades and xyz is soft. Full crimping and more aggressive angles in DIP/PIP joints puts a bit more pressure on the pulleys compared to open hand or strick half crimp. You can see this as some sort of backoff or technique work if you shall. The reason is mechanical: The finger tendons run from your forearm muscles to the ends of your fingers, navigating through the various bends of your wrist and fingers. I recently tested my finger strength on micro edge and was surprised to be able to hold the lattice 6mm edge in full crimp for 3-5 sec. Not full-crimping but definitely more crimped than on a 20mm, where I notice sometimes I'm kinda between a half crimp and "chisel crimp". For reference, at my best, I could one-arm hang the outer beast maker 2000 14mm edge and can one-arm hang 15mm on the tension board on a good day, as well as one-arm hang the lattice edge for ~5sec We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jan 31, 2022 · It’s often said that training full crimped is dangerous. If there is space on the hold next to your fingers and you hand is in the right position you can actually put you thumb directly on the hold. See full list on gripped. The difference in length of my index and middle create a difficult situation where open hand drags force my middle finger to a half crimp, and if I half crimp, the middle going into full. e. Has anyone else experienced something similar? What did you do to solve the problem? I'm tired of reaching a new high and then getting injured only to go back to climbing Does anyone in here own a Kilterboard? Is there any downside or is it as rad as I imagine? The 1005 are great for your daily-carry bag if you just need to make a few crimps. This is for training. Tension board is really good for pinching crimping that are both ergonomic. So, simply put, a crimp grip is the way your hand is positioned and how your fingers are bent when using a tiny hold. That did wonders for my ability to use those to the point I can now get away with not using full crimps on I have a habit of full crimping jugs and large crimps - especially when sport climbing. The approach and the gym. What this means is that my nail lifts from the skin, forming a “cut” which hurts a lot. That being said, it takes a long time for tendons to catch up, and closedcrimping here and there during redpoints/flash Hi all, I'm wondering whether it's better to use a thumb wrap (or thumb on the side of the index finger) vs curling the thumb into the palm when training full crimp while hangboarding. You can’t go full crimp! Nobody goes full crimp! I’m just a dude playing a dude disguised as another dude! Reply FlyHomeSpaceMan • Additional comment actions I've been focusing on half crimp/chisel grip a lot both on the hangboard and on rock/gym in the last six months in an attempt to reduce my overreliance on full crimp, and it's been working but now wondering if I need less volume or to introduce 3 finger drag more. com Jan 31, 2022 · Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. I can tell a big increase in finger strength but I always wonder if full crimping would give a substantial boost in performance. Nail polish to prevent nail splits? Recently I’ve been doing a lot of high-angle crimping (aka turbo crimping), and although my pulleys and tendons seem to be doing great, I have been experiencing recurring nail splits. Full crimping has felt very secure for me when I am just holding it or doing simple movement but anything else feels less secure than half crimp and I tend not to use it. If you'd keep your wrist straight while crimping, it experiences a small bending moment which you need to resist. A community for players of the Pokemon Trading Card Game to show off pulls and discuss the game. You'll have to full crimp sometimes, and it becomes more likely to cause injury if its the ONLY thing you do. Hello, One year ago , I could not full-crimp at all and used half-crimp for everything. It's the type of incut hold that you would definitely like to full-crimp (the loose definition here being to aggressively crimp with the help of the thumb pressing on the pointing finger), but my fingers don't want to cooperate. Feb 9, 2020 · In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. I especially like it as a warm up as I need longer for my finger to feel ready coming from past overuse injuries. My guess is that things that aggravate them such as half crimping and full crimping are placing the joint in a very specific position which is stressing the joint capsules and/or tendon sheaths in a specific manner which aggravates them. Closed hand crimping won't make you stronger and significantly increases the risk of tendon issues, both immediately if you slip and in the long run as you move to smaller holds but still haven't developed the necessary tendon strength. With the former, the first digits of fingers are more or less in line with my palm and I feel like I need more tendon/finger strength to hold the position. First, we must understand that there are 3 different crimping positions: 1) the open crimp 2) closed hand crimp and 3) full crimp. So you'll probably hear a lot of that when you ask around here. May 10, 2022 · The majority of new climbers don’t see the point in full-crimping, and many ask whether they should bother to use this grip seeing as the half-crimp feels stronger and more comfortable. Might not work for everyone, but at one point I started to have more and more pain from full crimping everything but larger holds, supposedly because of the seemingly unnatural hyperextension on most fingers, so started to actively train using open hand and half crimp whenever possible. Get one with replaceable dies and you can use it on a lot of different terminations. At the end of the day full crimping allows you to bone down on smaller holds and the risk isn't that great as long as you don't over use it. Aug 25, 2019 · I’ve posted several times on reddit about this type of injury, so this post is to consolidate that information while providing new information since I’ve eliminated completely (except when I do too much full crimping in a session). Think that's pretty much the established wisdom. My goal when full crimping is generally to add as much additional force to the hold. It's a bit more back-3 dominant. For (full) crimp, the wrist is in an angle if you hang straight under your fingertips. I rest about 2-3 minutes and get on the hangboard (lattice or beastmaker), and if my fingers are feeling iffy or a little over-used, I tend toward a larger edge (about 25-30mm). Im asking because I dont hyperextend in my full crimp, and I just realized it may affect the angle of my wrist and therefore impact how I am able to move on a hold. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Does hyperextension make your wrist flex a bit more, which Hi there, I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. In my right dominant hand on tiny holds going into a full crimp feels like my strongest grip. Full Crimp, half crimp, 3 finger drag, open crimp, etc. Half crimping is okay, I just recommend trying to build open hand strength. I have gotten Reddit-dogpiled on a couple times for mentioning that crimpers like the beloved Engineer PA-09 do not actually crimp to manufacturer specifications. 306K subscribers in the PokemonTCG community. To counter this, you don’t have to look far on YouTube to see an elite climber full-crimping (aka: boning) a waifer-thin edge on a hard boulder project. Half/full crimping is generally a lot more helpful when moving off a hold and/or locking off because it allows for a more secure grip on the hold but any move made with a half crimp can be made with an open hand crimp too. As opposed to a normal half-crimp. I can’t stress that enough. Feb 9, 2020 · Description: In this video, we are going to discuss if crimping is safe, we are going to break down the crimp position, and we will discuss proper training and management of crimping. From what I understand from the training blogs, articles, podcasts, etc. I will use a secure, low intensity full crimp inside without a second thought as I have long fingers and it brings me 3-4" closer to the next hold. I find now years later, that my open hand strength is superior to that of people who have climbed much longer than I, and it really helps on slopers or on small holds where sometimes a full crimp isnt possible due to hold type or body position. After all, isn't the full crimp just a half crimp variation that relies on your finger structure more as opposed to forerm strength? Though what do I know. Sometimes a half crimp is actually better than a full crimp! Many times you’ll be able to wrap your thumb over a part of the hold, so it’ll look to others like you’re full crimping but you’re actually not. I am a professional musician and You’ll eventually find what kind of full crimping works for you (in different situations). Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp holds. There's two unacceptable places to get hurt. For kilter I prefer 50 For selecting problems, just try everything. I save it for cruxes on projects or onsight attempts. I’ve got a big pack of TE/Solistrand splices/terminals that I’m pairing with marine grade heat shrink. He describes your positions as: open hand half crimp crimp full crimp He also has drag which is even more passive than your open hand position (ie really relying on friction!) Full crimping in the gym is no more or less dangerous than full crimping outside. The full crimp puts more stress on the A2 and A4 pulleys than other grips. Aug 25, 2019 · Ever since about 2-3 years into climbing, the back side of my middle fingers (on both hands) would get aggravated fairly easily when crimping. In Ned Feehally's beastmaking book. training half crimps is effective at targeting the muscles used for open hand as well as full crimp positions with one exercise. If the intensity is too high, you’re either going to get tweaked or end up training half crimp, which won’t transfer. If you repeatedly crimp at very high relative intensity, then you'll get hurt, just as if you went into the gym and did a bench press 1RM every single day. Keep working on your openhand crimps. On the other hand, the latter feels easier and is how I significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. The error that is commonly made is the distinction between the closed hand crimp and full crimp. I've been climbing everything by open hand and partial crimping for about a year now. If you want to climb often and not risk injury, just stick to open crimps and only go full on special occasions. full crimp)every now and then to help prepare you for a hard indoors and outdoors project. For my use, I’m using 10-18AWG. At 15s your right hand begins to do way to much work while your feet arent doing anything. Anyone who has switched from 20mm to 10mm or even less, around what %bw on 20mm do you think is good to switch at? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I'm confused on when to use these different styles and why there are different ones? I feel like if I hang on a 20mm edge I can only do the full crimp on my front knuckles, and a half crimp isn't even possible? Any info would be great,or diagrams/vids that more explainable, thanks. My open hand is much much stronger, so if a full crimp fails I almost always catch it openhanded. Anyone had a similar injury? What kind of rehab helped you? Middle finger has a sharp pain when crimping, mainly when it’s hyperextended, I can 3 finger drag with no pain. If you do a bunch of crimping, I agree with u/Reiben04 that a full-cycle ratcheting crimper is the way to go. If I remember correctly, a full crimp puts up to 36x the strain on your tendons vs open hand and it's dry We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. However, in my left hand the full crimp actually feels weaker than keeping it half crimp or open Finger strength wise, I don't get very good results on a 20mm edge (half crimp), but I can hang on a 4mm edge (full crimp) until I slip due to sweat (>7s). Because of this, full crimping does not work for me due to the fact I cant use the mechanical structure of my fingers to give me that crimping power. A closed crimp is when you curl your thumb up to your fingers, and a full crimp is when you bring your thumb further up and across your fingers, laying it on your pointer finger, locking in. Here's something to visualize, Daniel Woods climbing "The Process" V16: Consider the times when Woods might full-crimp, open-hand or half-crimp and contemplate for yourselves why each position is used. A closed crimp is when you curl your thumb up to your fingers, and a full crimp is when you bring your thumb further up and across your fingers, laying it on your pointer finger, locking in. I'm strongest at crimps, half pad crimps aren't an issue for me, and I never do a full crimp with my thumb over my fingers unless the crimp is less than half a pad and I gotta really crank on it. Avoid full crimping if you can, and try to get in the habit of open hand gripping as much as you can. I stopped using it out of fear of injury after my 4th a2 pulley injury. Really, really focus on form. Do you guys have any idea how to balance that again? Or do you have methods how not to full crimp everything? full crimp when possible, that bit of positive edge will help you pull into the wall. It's really hard to get rid of this bad habit because whenever I boulder something crimpy, when I try to open-hand it, it feels SO much weaker. I always just considered the thumb wrap to be full crimp Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. If you feel you need to full crimp a hold to finish a problem, then sure, just be aware that you are developing weaknesses by doing this on every problem. Kind of a strange thing that doesn't quite make sense, wanted to see if any others have experienced the same thing. It seems like this grip type changes the entire anatomy of what tendons or under load. Supposedly* open crimp strength translates to full crimp strength, so you can train open and not worry about losing much of your absolute max crimp For a climb like this, you need better footwork and not more crimp strength. Yeah, that sounds like the start of potential overuse. In a strict half crimp I focus on folding my thumb into my palm, as if I was signing the number 4 with my hand. . The full crimp, as indicated above, does involve the placement of the thumb over the index finger, but it also involves a change in the angle of your hand which creates max distal interphalangeal I’m talking very easy—I don’t deadlift half-crimp but reckon I could do 130lbs pretty easily per hand, but I started with 40lbs full-crimp the first session. I feel that this: a) trains the full crimp with zero injury risk, and b) helps fight off the pump Other than that, I rarely full crimp. The gold standard for board angles for training is 40. hang 4mm full crimp but I can hang 6 mm half crimp for 3 seconds or so and I like pinches etc. My full crimp/hyperextended fingers don't feel natural or stable for me, my go to grip is a chisel with a crimped middle finger. People often assume that a full crimp is when you place your thumb over your index finger, Jul 13, 2021 · The complete guide on all things crimps. It isn't dangerous if trained regularly. Image 1 - My normal half crimp on an 8mm edge Image 2 - A finger tip down style grip I have been experimenting with different grip types. That being said, one of the most prolific climbing coaches and training experts (and of course a very hard climber Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. I have only ever used half crimp (ie dont lock thumb over fingers), in blind ignorance to the fact that full crimp even existed as a beginner. Sure they are cheap and work fine for hobbyists but for production you get what you pay for. As a beginner I can suggest very easy practice of several grip positions (full, half crimp, 3 finger drag, etc) to improve how you grip holds on the wall. Id I also trained myself a while back to use pretty much exclusively open-hand and half-crimp grips, even on small holds. I've come to realize that this is more of a full crimp. Jul 13, 2021 · Then here’s all you need to know about crimping in climbing! A crimp can mean two different things in rock climbing: it’ll either mean a small edge or hand-hold, or mean the way you grab onto such a hold and the hand position (the crimp grip) you’re using to do so. But is it? Here's why you might want to reconsider. However, when I climb a crispy problem, my fingers start to hurt, specifically the last knuckles before the fingertip. You shouldnt need to take your weight fully on to the crimp. I can't remember the last time I full-crimped anything. When you can’t I always find it helpful to put the thumb on the outside of the hold, surprisingly beneficial. , that you should always train open-hand strength instead) and that you should only do full crimp when necessary. I’m making an automotive wiring harness so any input is very much appreciated everyone! What I’m looking for is a full-cycle ratcheting crimper for non-insulated butt splices. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. In general I've found that full crimping makes my grip feel weaker. I've come to the conclusion that I can't crimp anything if I don't full crimp it. When I full crimp, i can naturally form nearly a right angle with my first finger joint. And I have noticed that Image 2 (finger tip down) is a lot more powerful on smaller holds & painful. When you're pulling hard they are also under a lot of tension, and the function of the pulleys is to hold the tendon close to the bone by exerting a The full crimp has some strength advantages due to the angles of the finger but that does not mean you have weak muscles overall, just maybe weak muscles for open handed positions. Climbing hard finally caught up to me I guess lol. I cant e g. I've been climbing for ~6 years (V10 indoors; V9 outdoors), and I have had a huge discrepancy between my half crimp and closed crimp to the point that my closed crimp is virtually non-existent. I personally think that the full crimp is a skill or tool that is used, so just hanging on a hangboard isn't going to teach you how to use it. Normally, when bouldering indoors, I can do some V7 and V8 but without full crimping, I'd have serious trouble with Not to mention that you cannot make use of a crimp with a thumb-catch while open-handing the crimp unless the thumb-catch is in the right spot. As someone who's always been best at crimping but also paid the price for it in terms of injury, I sometime wonder whether extreme crimping is worth it in terms of longevity. Full Crimp Hangboard Metrics Is there any commonly used full crimping standard to compare oneself against? Full crimping doesn’t work very well on the BM2K edges because of their roundness, and half crimp correlation to closed crimping also doesn’t seem to be very high (anecdotally/ according to training podcasters). And the only drawback I’ve Is full crimping on every hold ok in general if you are super light (my thought is no but then again in the example of the 100 lbs guy, will he get an injury soon?)? I'm assuming you have to stimulate your index finger joints (i. But it's like all things climbing: The more you do it, the most your realize that we break stuff into categories like open, half crimp, full crimp. Yeah full crimps give you the most power but at the risk of injury if you overdo it. Sometimes it will even bleed. as shortcuts to describe a fluid spectrum of a full range of possibilities mainly so we can have conversations without spending 10 minutes describing the grip type. As discussed in chapter 4, full crimping is mechanically stronger than open-handing or half crimping when on small holds. But two, full crimping with hyperextension of the DIP joint feels fundamentally riskier due to how the tendon binds against the pulleys. I've never been comfortable hanging on a hangboard with full crimp even though it's my strongest grip. Lots of people on r/climbing and r/bouldering think you should never train the full crimp position (i. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? Full crimping is also more strenuous as it puts a larger load on the index and the joints are put under more load (compared to drag or half crimp). I've been bouldering and climbing for about 3 years. nbtnd sjbja tyvy tsyqt gbj xerz aqil tqiiqh slhyb tmkxwxu